Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Spain 2011 Day 0 Sunday May 22

Spain day 0, Sunday, May 22, 2011 – Madrid, the day before the tour started

Hotel Catalonia Atocha, Calle Atocha 81, Madrid E-28012

http://www.hoteles-catalonia.com/en/our_hotels/europa/spain/madrid/madrid/hotel_catalonia_atocha/index.jsp

Arrived Continental 62 at 10am right on time, after a truly sleepless night. Maybe an hour or two, but just could not get comfy and it was cold as I had a window seat. Plane was totally full so a college kid, but a nice one, sat in between us. Got the bags finally, mine took forever, then found the long line of taxis – no shortage of those—but had trouble getting him to understand where our hotel was, despite it being on a rather major street. But OK it is a small hotel after all, but nice, and recently modernized with snazzy bathroom. Bed seems ok but pillows not; too fluffy for me. Traveling with Thaisa Farrar my high school best buddie and we always have a great time together.

So, left the airport by 11am, were checked in by noon thankfully. Rested up for an hour, then hit the streets to see some sights!!

First stop was the Plaza Mayor, only about a 15min. walk from our hotel, which is very centrally sited. This is a beautiful, if almost too regular, square, with three-story buildings on all four sides, tall archways leading to the side streets, and a bronze equestrian statue of Philip III in the middle. People walking to and fro on cobble-stones, and it was not easy. Cafés all around, so we sat down at one to observe the people-scene, and ordered our first meal in Spain. Unfortunately it was really awful paella, mostly just rice with chicken bones and tiny empty shells. We toasted with a glass of sangria though and had a nice rest while we watched the activity.

After a bit, we wandered off to another big square, the Puerta del Sol, and quite the opposite in every way, Not pretty at all, ugly buildings all around, and crowds of demonstrators with signs and tents, but oddly peaceful and no shouting at all, just hordes of young folks milling about. Today is election day so they must be all wiped out from demonstrating earlier this week.

We thought to go to the Prado next, but got lost among the twisting side streets and ended up back at our hotel so had a rest before going on. We found the small (very small like a hot tub) pool on the hotel Roof Terrace, so sat with our tired feet in it for a relaxing time!

At last The Prado! Although we were pretty tired, we waited on line for 20 minutes to get in free at 5pm, and since it is open until 8pm that was fine. First to Velazquez of course, and then for tea and snack in a really very nice modern café in a new wing, which was very welcome indeed. After that a few more rooms and then by 7pm we were nearly comatose. Found a taxi back to the hotel for 4 euros well worth it even though the hotel was a short walk away as we found out much later. And in fact we didn’t even eat dinner as we were so so tired. Nice to get to bed early.

Spain 2011 Day 1 Monday May 23

Spain Day 1 – Monday May 23, 2011

GLOBUS Tour "Spanish Fiesta 2011" -- Begin tour at 6pm after 35 people arrive
Atocha Station – Museum Reina Sofia – Palacio Real – Dinner at hotel

http://www.globusjourneys.com/product.aspx?content=accom&trip=1ZX

PHOTOS:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Linda.Roccos/Spain20111Madrid

This morning we slept late – til 7am but a really good rest. Finally went down to a huge buffet breakfast around 8am, with far too much food, but hey it’s a good start to a long day.

First thing we walked down the hill of Calle Atocha to the Atocha Train Station, a 19th century marvel, with huge domed ceiling and a tropical garden inside it, since it isn’t used for trains anymore, there being some new modern stations behind it. We never did see any trains though. But the space is fantastic, as it was renovated in 1992 by King Juan Carlos, for the Barcelona Olympics.

Then we went across the street – a wide street, of which there are quite a few with trees down the middle and the sides, very pretty – to the modern art museum, Centro Reina Sofia (Queen Sofia, the present Queen, who is Greek). It is in a huge courtyard building that was an old hospital, So many long corridors to explore, and much great modern art, a lot of Dali and Picasso, and of course Guernica, which was returned to Spain after Franco died, according to Picasso’s will. The amazing thing were the many many groups of VERY small school children, like Antonia’s age, who were sitting in front of many paintings, and talked to by a very engaging leader. Too much to explain, but a wonderful museum, so hope they have a web site as I didn’t buy a guide book.

After a nice snack break in the courtyard, we took the Metro (yes we are brave) to the Opera stop, involving changing trains no less, which was close to the Royal Palace (Palacio Real). It was getting hot and hotter, but it was not too far to the Palace entrance, way on the far side of it of course. This was a 10 Euro ticket, no senior rate. Well worth it, as they say it’s the third grandest palace in Europe after Versailles and Vienna. The place was gigantic, and most rooms splendid in the grand manner, but some just godawful, over the top. We went through the dining room with an enormous table in the center, which could seat 144 for big dinners (thankfully we aren’t invited). After the long trek through what was open, only a tiny fraction of it, we went back to the beautiful square in front of it and sat down for a beer and snack. All we do is snack it seems, can’t seem to find a proper restaurant. But it was cool and breezy in the shade.

By now it’s way past siesta time, so we thought to get back to the hotel, either by taxi or metro. When we came the had closed the line that we needed, so to get back to the hotel, it took three changes, and we finally managed to find the correct lines to change to. Not bad once we got it.

Well after a nice short siesta, we met our tour group at 6pm in a big room in the hotel basement where the breakfast was, and where dinner was to be. 35 of us and most are couples, and yes, most seem as old as us, some a bit younger. After all the explanations, dinner at 8pm, almost too tired to eat the artichoke hearts in some sauce and some strange meat in sauce with French fries(!) and free wine for this dinner. Our table was a nice couple from Philadelphia, she was a teacher like Ti, and he was a librarian (both retired) – so how weird is that!!!

Spain 2011 Day 2 Tuesday May 24

Spain day 2 – Tuesday, May 24, 2011, Madrid

GLOBUS: "The capital since 1561, Madrid today is a strikingly modern city, the showcase of a country resolutely turned towards the future. Morning sightseeing with a Local Guide takes you to the Puerta del Sol, Plaza de España with its monument to Cervantes, the Parliament, Cibeles Fountain, elegant Calle Alcala, and Paseo de Castellana. Then the highlight: a visit to the palatial PRADO MUSEUM with its priceless art treasures. The afternoon is at leisure. An optional excursion to El Escorial and the Valley of the Fallen can be arranged. (Breakfast)”

Another nice big buffet breakfast, then we had a bus tour of the city at 8:30am. Then to the PRADO (again for us) and after a half hour wait for a ticket mix-up our group split up in two being too big a group for the museum. We got an excellent man for a guide, who was quite funny and very informative. He led us around in our smaller group, maybe 20 of us, so it was good to be near him, although we had ear pieces and carried the battery pack or “whisperer” as they called it, as they whispered in our ears I guess. It was light and worn around the neck so not a bother. Fortunately we went to all the rooms we missed on Sunday, being too tired to explore fully. All the Goyas, the famous ones, more Velazquez, etc. etc. were viewed today for almost two hours.

Then at noon we got back on the bus to go an hour north to Escorial, the monastery and burial place of the kings of Spain, as well as the royal palace for some centuries. It was really wonderful, more stairs than you could count, up and down, and all granite stonework, not plastered or painted over. Rather austere but elegant in an understated way. Quite the opposite of the later Royal Palace in Madrid. That was an extra trip, but well worth the money, and in fact nearly all of the tour people went on it.

Back to the hotel around 5:30 for a rest up and then went out to find some dinner. We took the metro again to the Gran Via stop, not very far, as that was a rather large shopping street. However we didn’t find any restaurants there, so after walking too much and asking a group of policemen where we were, which they finally found on our map (but they were national guard so that explains it), we finally found a main street again, and decided to try the Westin Palace Hotel. Very ritzy of course, not our usual kind, but there was a restaurant as well as the lounge in the rotunda, which had a fantastic stained glass dome over it. So we sat there very elegantly and very tired, but had wine and a little dish of prawns with guacamole—very very tasty combination.

Walking back was amazingly short, as we took some back streets, having finally figured out the map, and were really surprised at how close we were. But the streets wind up and down and back and forth, as in old cities, so it’s hard to go in one direction easily. Very tired and had to pack up to be ready to leave next day at 8am – but bags out of the room at 6:45am!

Spain 2011 Day 3 Wednesday May 25

Spain day 3 – Wednesday, May 25, 2011 – Segovia, Burgos, Vitoria – 288 miles

Barcelo-Gasteiz Hotel, Avda. Gasteiz, 45. 01008

http://www.barcelo.com/BarceloHotels/en-GB/Hotels/Spain/VitoriaGasteiz/Gasteiz/Home

GLOBUS: "Head into beautiful Castile, “the province of the castles.” Cross the rugged Sierra de Guadarrama on the way to Segovia, famous for its Alcazar and the 2,000-year-old Roman aqueduct. In Burgos, see the magnificent limestone Cathedral of Santa Maria, where the legendary El Cid is buried. Afternoon arrival in Vitoria with time for a stroll through this ancient Basque city’s delightful historic center. (Breakfast, Dinner)”

Bags out of the room at 6:45am Breakfast at 7am; depart at 8:00am for Segovia to see a huge Roman aqueduct going right through the town. You can’t drive through it anymore as it was in danger of falling and it is really very tall (2,952 feet long and 114 feet high in two tiers) with no clamps nor mortar--amazing. We walked uphill to the town square, very small and quaint, then had a nice salad in the bus stop, just right for midday.

Then on to Burgos with its humongous Gothic cathedral where El Cid was buried; there was a huge bronze statue of him in the middle of the plaza where our bus stopped, and near where I stopped to have an iced tea after a very very hot walk around the town square and tower. Rather plain town, not very interesting, except for the cathedral. There is also a “white castle” looking gate building that leads out to a broad park, which was a former river filled in with grass. This seems to be common in many cities, as the rivers used to flood, and now they have added green space.

Then back in the bus for a long ride to Vitoria or Gasteiz in Basque language so all signs are in two languages; it is the capital of the Basque Country, but not much else in the town. Before dinner we took a short walk to the old town, with a square (Plaza de la Virgen Blanca) with kids camping out to demonstrate although they were probably still taking their siesta. They must go out at night to yell and cause a ruckus, but we haven’t seen any action so far. Apparently they keep the demonstrating kids in one square so as not to disrupt entire cities. There was another smaller old square next to it (Plaza Espana), with kids playing and people sitting around in cafes. (Not sure I got the names of the squares right)

The hotel was nice, although not as nice as Madrid, but we had dinner there (included) set up in a separate room for 20 or us, so I got to know a few more people. Every day a few more names make sense.

Spain 2011 Day 4 Thursday May 26

Spain day 4 – Thursday May 26, 2011 – Bilbao, San Sebastian, Pamplona – 150 miles

NH Iruna Park Hotel (Iruna is name of Basque in their language) Arcadio Maria Larraona 1, Pamplona

http://www.nh-hotels.com/nh/en/hotels/spain/pamplona/nh-iruna-park.html

“Globus: This morning, travel to Bilbao, the great port city of the Basque region for a guided visit to the GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM, an amazing feat of construction created by North American architect Frank O. Gehry. Stop in lovely San Sebastian, the “Pearl of the Cantabrian Coast,” before arriving in Pamplona at the foot of the Pyrenees. (Breakfast, Dinner)”

Wake up call at 6am, bags out at 7am, breakfast at 7, on the road at 8am. (this is getting repetitious) Going to Bilbao and Basque country; eventually the scenery changed dramatically from rolling countryside to very hilly pine tree covered country, with the road going through tunnels and passes through the really very steep hills.

IT’S RAINING IN BILBAO :( and we are quite sad, but out of the bus with umbrellas to walk around for half an hour until the museum opened at 10am. And it was everything we ever read about it too, really grand from outside and all around too. We had a different guide, having to split up our group again, but he was quite good, and of course the art was REALLY bizarre, except for the huge room with the Richard Serra sculptures in it, my favorite. A Jenny Holzer neon lit word display was really hard to look at. No photography of course as at the Prado, so I bought a thin book with nice pictures.

Then on to the bus and San Sebastian (Donostia in Basque), where it’s still raining, too bad as it’s quite a lovely little town by the sea. So we walked a bit with umbrellas and then found a quaint tapas bar for lunch. We met up with four other singletons like us, two friends from Colorado traveling together and two other single women, so we had a quite enjoyable lunch of some strange tapas items. It was not very expensive, even though I had sangria too of course.

At 2:30, we were back on the bus in the rain to Pamplona, through very scenic mountain passes, but very foggy out, so not much to see. Arrive around 4pm to walk through the streets where they had the Running of the Bulls. There were metal plates in the streets that could be raised to fence off the spectators. Even so the streets are quite narrow. Apparently for a small fortune you can rent someone’s balcony for the 10 minute run. This is a very quaint pretty town, lovely colors for the buildings with their iron balconies, and a rather large town square. After an hour or so back we are back on the bus for a short ride to our hotel, very nice and modern.

Dinner at night at 8:30 in the hotel restaurant was excellent, the best yet: tasty green beans first course, plus a cup of gazpacho; free Sangria for the table; then duck and potatoes, very tasty. Ice cream for dessert. I already had an ice cream midday, so this has got to stop. May have to refuse next one.

Spain 2011 Day 5 Friday May 27

Spain day 5 – Friday May 27, 2011 – Zaragoza, Barcelona – 313 miles

Rivoli Rambla Hotel, Rambla dels estudis 128, Barcelona E-08002

http://www.hotelrivoliramblas.com/index.php?lg=eng

“Globus: Enjoy vistas of Rioja wine country on the way to Saragossa. Stop on PLAZA DEL PILAR, one of Spain’s grandest squares. Free time to visit the Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar, where, according to legends, the Virgin appeared to St. James. Then, on to Barcelona, Spain’s second-largest city and the host of the Olympic Games in 1992. (Breakfast, Dinner)”

This morning Pamplona looks very dark and windy and cold, but hopefully it will get better as we move south. 7am bags out and breakfast, leave at 8am for Zaragoza, which has Spain’s “grandest square” and not much else. It’s a two-hour ride from Pamplona. After that another long drive to the Mediterranean coast and Barcelona, where we hope to warm up! They are very efficient as they collect the bags from outside our rooms while we eat breakfast, so they are all on the bus when we are ready to go. And they bring them to our room while we are doing something else. Nice to not schlep bags all over, so that is a VERY nice part of the trip for me as I’m used to schlepping.

After a pit stop along the highway, we arrived at Zaragoza around noon, but not for lunch, just an hour to view the very large town square, usually called Plaza Mayor in most cities, and I finally found an ATM that worked, as many of them did not work. Again the kids were camped out in the square, and still quiet at midday, but I guess ready to demonstrate at night. We went into a huge basilica, with many many people there to touch the pillar where supposedly Saint James saw the image of the virgin Mary in a pillar of light. There was an actual small pillar in the church that people touched. Not me though. Lots of school kids in groups brought flowers to leave.

At last, “Beautiful Barcelona” (as an extra tour was called) and our hotel, the Rivoli Ramba, right on a main street going to the main square and right now at night it is pretty noisy out there. But we have the best room in the hotel, with a balcony on the street, and the three flagpoles flying the flags of EU, Spain, and Catalonia. The weather is great now, warmer and a slight breeze, so hope it stays this way.

We went on the optional extra bus tour despite not wanting to get on a bus again, but it was well worth it, as we went up up up the hill to the park with the Gaudi sculptures and buildings in it, a planned community that was never finished except for two houses that we didn’t go to. But the grounds and the gateway buildings were fantastic, truly wonderful to see, despite the masses of tourists there with us. Then the bus went down to the coast for a view of the beach right in town, and the Olympic village that was turned into apartments. The area had been a former industrial wasteland that was torn down to make way for the buildings, now a high end place to live.

Going back to the hotel for dinner was difficult as the Ramblas street was blocked off due to the demonstrations and crowds at the top of it. So the bus had to make a long roundabout to find a parallel street, and there weren’t many, to drop us off for a short walk back to the hotel just in time for dinner at 8:30, fortunately in the hotel. And it was a great meal too, nice salad and salmon, but no free wine, which I didn’t need anyhow.

Spain 2011 Day 6 Saturday May 28

Spain Day 6 - Barcelona Wins !

Spain day 6, Saturday May 28, 2011 – Barcelona Wins the European Cup !!

“Globus: Sightseeing with a Local Guide features the Columbus Monument, elegant tree-lined Ramblas, Plaza de Cataluna, and Paseo de Gracia. Admire the spectacular Sagrada Familia, Gaudi’s masterpiece, and enjoy a panoramic view of the city and harbor from Montjuïc Hill. Also visit the GOTHIC QUARTER. Afternoon at leisure. An optional excursion to Montserrat can be arranged. Why not join an optional dinner at a typical Catalonian restaurant? (Breakfast)”

Wake up call at 6:30 for a change as not a busy schedule today. Another great buffet breakfast, then on to the bus at 8:30 for the city tour, this time Gaudi’s cathedral, Familia Sagrada, with its unfinished spires. It is as fantastic up close as it is in pictures, so we had a walk around it, but not in it, then back to the bus for the rest of the city, and then a walk through the Gothic quarter ending at the cathedral. Change of plans due to demonstrations; the optional dinner is cancelled. Very good as we have had too many dinners so far. So we are free to sightsee after around noon.

On the way to the Picasso Museum, we stopped at a small tapas bar for sangria (I’m drinking too much here, but hey, it’s Spain and I don’t have to drive!) and a few tiny tapas portions. Very cute place that seemed rather typical of these tapas bars.

The Museum is in several old Gothic mansions joined together with courtyards here and there. It opened in 1963 but unfortunately Picasso (1881-1970) never saw it, as he refused to return to Spain under Franco’s rule which lasted until 1975. Favorites works of mine were the series of Las Meninas studies (1957) for a final variation on the whole picture (he worshipped Velazquez). Also fine were the series of dove paintings (1950s) from his window on the Mediterranean, very bright and cheerful unlike some of his earlier work; and a few very early landscape paintings in the academic manner from his teenage years in Barcelona, 1895-97. He was after all a quite good painter.

After that we were dead tired and tried to find the Metro back to Placa Catalunya near our hotel, but couldn’t find it, so walked slowly slowly back to the square, and found it busy but not that overwhelming. Apparently the demonstrating kids have gone somewhere to watch the BIG GAME tonight, Barcelona against Manchester United. We’ll watch from our room and watch the milling crowd from our balcony.

It was similar to Greece and Italy when there is a big soccer game on, with crowds of people standing outside bars and restaurants to watch their TV. Whenever Barcelona scored, a big cheer of course, and when Manchester scored, a big groan. Finally I went down to the lobby for some ice to put on my foot, and just then another score, a big cheer – and the lights went out in the hotel!! I was stranded down in the lobby and had to walk back up but at least we are on the second floor (really the third here), so I get up there and found an interior door had closed so I couldn’t find our room. I finally figured out how to open it in the semi-dark of the emergency lights, so got to the room just as the lights came back on. I hope no one was stuck in the elevator. My fee hurt from so much walking, hence the ice, so we finished watching the game, drinking the wine we had bought and eating sandwiches and peanuts and hummus. It was 11pm when it was over, and then the crowds started coming up and down Las Ramblas.

Our street, Las Ramblas, was totally full of people milling up and down shouting and yelling and setting off cherry bombs and fire-crackers and beeping horns and general noise-makers. Think New Years Eve in Times Square all over the city. Even the closed doors and blinds couldn’t keep out the noise. I took a short video of the crowd and the noise so I'll try to upload it!